Gigi Hadid channelled a rebellious, punk-inspired spirit on the runway at Versace’s latest Milan Fashion Week show.
Hadid is a familiar face on the Versace runway, and this season wore a black button-up dress with a sheer built-in top and white collar and cuff detailing.
The autumn/winter 2024 collection infused Versace’s signature glamour with a punk aesthetic – seen in the black leather gloves, dark eye make-up and loose hair Hadid wore to finish the look.
Versace’s aesthetic has always been maximalist, flying in the face of the quiet luxury trend taking over runways – and this season is no different.
Power tailoring was central to the collection – think military-inspired coats with matching mini skirts, boucle suits and structured jackets with statement shoulders.
The longline button-front jackets worn over trousers reimagined a classic Versace look from the archives, previously worn by Purple Rain singer Prince.
Punk elements were seen in the checked outerwear and grungy mohair jumpers, while still retaining elements of Versace’s polish – with sleek silhouettes, leopard prints and a smattering of sparkles.
While plenty of other Italian brands are undergoing changes – Moschino’s new creative director showed his first collection at Milan Fashion Week, and Sabato De Sarno seems to be increasingly confident in Gucci’s new direction – this was something of a predictable collection from Versace, where Donatella Versace has been in charge since the late ’90s.
On Instagram, Versace described the show as having a “quiet rebellion”, but the beauty looks on display were anything but quiet – models wore extreme black cat-eye flicks and some donned extreme spiky wigs.
Make-up artist Pat McGrath told Vogue: “It’s all about punk. The focus is a wet, inky-black eye that feels very rebellious, but is still glamorous and sexy. So it’s punk, but it’s still very Versace.”
McGrath said she sent three dramatic black winged looks down the runway: one which was sharp and graphic, another with soft edges and another she said had “a very bold shape, paired with bleached brows”.
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Actor Anne Hathaway – a long-time Versace ambassador – sat on the front row in a look straight from the runway.
She wore a figure-hugging red leather midi-dress with a built-in corset and off-the-shoulder neckline, but styled without the matching red gloves the model on the runway wore.
The show came as Jennifer Lopez revealed in a Vogue video her stylist had urged her not to wear the Versace green chiffon dress to the Grammy Awards in 2000 which caused such a stir that it is often cited as the motivation for Google creating its image search function.
